Out on the cliffs, there's nowhere to hide from the weather — it hits you full force, wind first, then rain, mixed in with salt spray. In last month’s Field Notes I wrote that in October walks take on a completely different character in autumn and we exceeded expectations on that one. We explored part of Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way in the last days of September, and autumn was already unmistakable — not in colour, but in the chill that settled in the moment the sun dropped behind the cliffs and in the crisp morning air.